Suki, a newly opened casual-dining restaurant, has been taking the Beirut dining scene by storm, with a menu designed by Dubai’s Singaporean star chef Reif Othman.

Othman, who is giving the Lebanese capital a taste of Asian street food, is the Michelin Bib Gourmand-recognised chef behind Reif Kushiyaki, Hoe Lee Kow and Tero. He is known for serving up bold flavours through authentic Japanese and Chinese dishes, elevated with a sprinkle of contemporary flair.

Known for his popular Wagyu sando and viral yuzu “toilet roll” cake, Othman’s Beirut menu includes Japanese dishes, Chinese dim sum, sushi and a host of sharing plates.

First impressions

Located in Beirut’s chic yet laid-back Saifi neighbourhood, the restaurant fits right in with the effortless, creative spirit of the district, occupying a corner spot that includes both indoor and outdoor seating.

It’s cosy and intimate and features fun Japanese night-market style elements. Expect minimalist lucky cats, colourful sake barrels and hanging cloth banners decorated with fish motifs that offer a sleek, contemporary take on traditional restaurants and festival food stalls.

Even the menu, designed like a retro folded Chinese take-out pamphlet, plus the vintage ceramic tableware, are signs that each element has been carefully chosen to create a specific ambience – nostalgic yet modern, charming and traditional, but ready to push boundaries. It’s an ethos that you first see with your eyes, then taste in the food.

The menu

I visit the venue with some friends for lunch, and our server is quick to bring out a few small plates while the hot starters are being prepared. The pickled cucumber salad ($7) – crunchy, tangy and a little spicy – is a satisfying start.

Next up is the vegetable spring roll ($9), served with sweet chilli dipping sauce. The wrapper is light and thin, really allowing the crispy vegetable filling to shine.

We follow up with shrimp sesame toast ($20), fluffy fried bread topped with a generous amount of diced shrimp, coated in sesame and a spicy sauce. This is easily one of the best starters on the menu and a must try.

Suki offers a diverse mix of dim sum and gyoza, made fresh with fillings that focus on flavour. We also sample the har gau dim sum ($12), a delicious mixed seafood filling wrapped in squid-ink shell. They’re perfectly steamed and come with three different dipping sauces to try.

Next is a set of sushi – crispy salmon ($12) and spicy tuna ($16) rolls – which are fresh and made with rice seasoned just right. The rolls are simple, with some avocado and mild green chilli to contrast the tuna or marinated salmon on top, but the flavour is excellent and the freshness of the fish comes through in the taste.

For those less interested in seafood, the chicken chowmein ($24), made with thick udon noodles and sliced vegetables, is a solid pick. I personally prefer my udon noodles to have a bit more chew to them, but the dish still hits the spot in terms of ingredients and balanced taste. Another standout is the beef clay pot, but more on that later.

We finish with a decadent dessert of crispy banana fritters ($11) with miso caramel sauce and vanilla bean ice cream, which I would happily eat several helpings of. The dish’s sweetness is tempered by the slightly salty umami notes of the miso. It’s a well-rounded way to finish the meal that will please even those who claim not to have a sweet tooth.

The fluffy Japanese cheese cake ($16), topped with fresh cream and a mix of berries, is a close second, and definitely a crowd pleaser.

Standout dish

If there’s one dish that is a must try, it’s the beef clay pot ($38). It feaures layers of buttery rice cooked in stock, covered with nutty mushrooms and perfectly grilled and sliced Angus beef, topped with fried onions, fresh spring onions and shiso leaf.

It’s a party of contrasting yet complimenting flavours and textures – full of umami, sweet and savoury notes. It’s also a comforting dish that keeps you coming back for more. It can be shared between two or devoured by one.

Spend or splurge?

Suki can be a modest treat or a full-blown celebration. For the cautious diner, spring rolls ($9) with the 18-hour chicken ramen ($24) and a piece of mochi ($6) cost $39.

Meanwhile, those who want to splurge, go for the crispy squid ($26), wagyu katsu sando ($44) and chocolate fudge with kinako cream ($17), for a bill of $87.

The verdict

Suki is big on flavour and won’t leave you disappointed. While it’s hardly the cheapest place in the city, the food is worth the extra spend and is perfect for those special occasions – date night, a celebration or a significant night out with friends – when you want a memorable meal. Chef Othman has created a menu that is well-rounded, delicious and leaves you craving more.

© Khaleej Times