With so many steakhouses competing for attention in Dubai, Hanu sets itself apart as the only restaurant offering Hoengseong Hanwoo – considered South Korea’s finest marbled beef, on a par with Japanese A5 Wagyu.
Situated in St Regis Gardens, one of Palm Jumeirah’s trendiest luxury dining spots, the restaurant opened in June and is in good company with Lena, Aretha, Chez Wam and Tresind Studio among its neighbours.
The creation of Seoul-born chef Kyungsoo Moon, Hanu proudly showcases South Korea’s culinary traditions with a modern twist.
Where to sit and what to expect
For such a luxurious venue, there’s an endearing sense of homeliness to Hanu that sets it apart from many of its fine dining peers.
Extravagance is far from unique in Dubai, but attention to detail can be. Not so here. Even before arrival, I’m sent a video message on WhatsApp by the booking team with detailed turn-by-turn directions so finding our way to the venue is not problematic.
This personal touch goes a long way, and it continues on arrival where my dining partner and I are met with warm smiles, addressed by our first names, and shown to the table by our server for the evening, Anisha.
The decor is dark and moody, with striking artwork lining the walls as well as a lounge and bar area where a DJ is spinning records, albeit at an ambient volume so conversation isn’t impaired.
There’s a combination of indoor and outdoor seating options, but we go for inside and my suggestion would be that you do the same, because one of Hanu’s standout features is the built-in barbecue grills in each table.
Outside, these grills are separate. The experience is no different in terms of taste, of course, but an outdoor table would deny you one of Hanu’s standout selling points.
The menu
Hanu’s menu is as eclectic as it is flamboyant.
There are traditional Korean rice and noodle dishes, hand rolls and seafood options, alongside the selection of meat cuts that make it famous. The price spectrum is also wide and inclusive, offering something for everyone, with a la carte as well as set menu (omakase) options.
On Anisha’s recommendation, we opt for the Hanwookase tasting menu at Dh650 per person. It is curated by the team to showcase the best of South Korea’s Gangwon province.
The starter selection features Juansang Hanwoo beef broth, courgette carpaccio, beef tartare, red prawn jang, crispy cow and mushroom bulgogi.
This is followed by three cuts of premium Hanwoo meat – striploin, tenderloin and rib-eye yangyeom galbi – with banchan sides, salad and a choice of either spicy kimchi or Japanese brisket stew with rice.
The starters are impressive, offering an array of flavours that highlight the quality ingredients used, yet all are so light so there’s plenty of room for the beef to come. If I have to pick, my favourite is the red prawn jang as it’s nice to add a bit of seafood variety to the festival of meat we’re tucking into.
The piece de resistance, of course, is the main course. Each steak is wonderfully flavourful and succulent but, beyond the food, it also becomes an experience of the evening to witness the Hanu team cooking it before your eyes. What’s more, the selection of salts, banchan and salad offer so much variety so as to have a different condiment with every bite. After the cooked meat, we finish with the brisket stew that acts as a sort of palate cleanser.
After such a feast, dessert is mercifully light as we follow Anisha’s recommendation and have the mango bingsu. It’s a traditional Korean dish of shaved milk ice topped with fresh, ripe mango. It’s sweet and refreshing, and a wonderful way to conclude the meal.
Save or splurge
A three-course meal at Hanu varies dramatically, costing between Dh239 and Dh1,243.
On the high end of the price spectrum lie the Korean seasonal hansang snack (Dh125), Japanese A5 Kobe beef (Dh1,050) and yuja sphere (Dh68).
The three most reasonable dishes across starters, mains and desserts are the edamame (Dh32), charcoal grilled Wagyu bulgogi (Dh145) and mango bingsu (Dh62).
A chat with the chef
The main man at Hanu is chef Moon, a South Korean national well known in the region after successful restaurants such as SushiSamba and Attiko.
“I bring energy, passion, and a deep respect for culinary heritage, but always with a drive to innovate and connect with guests through food,” he tells me.
Chef Moon says his cooking style is modern Korean with an international twist, while his favourite ingredient to cook with is soy sauce because “it’s simple but it has soul. It carries depth, balance, and umami. To me, it connects East and West. In this menu, I’ve used it not just as seasoning, but also as an expression; it appears in marinades, glazes and even in desserts, always in a subtle way that brings harmony.”
Chef Moon recommends vegan kimchi for those on a plant-based diet and truffle japchae for vegetarians.
His go-to starter is the Hanwoo tartlet, his healthy choice the perilla noodle, and it’s the gochujang-marinated Chilean sea bass that gets the nod as his seafood pick.
The 24-hour Hanwoo short rib is his suggestion for meat eaters, while for dessert it’s arguably the easiest decision of the lot as he picks the signature Korean bingsu – available in matcha or mango.
© Khaleej Times
